OEKO-TEX, GRS, Higg: What Each Certificate Actually Covers
They Answer Different Questions
Three certificates come up on almost every knit fabric enquiry, and they are not interchangeable:
- OEKO-TEX STANDARD 100 — is the finished fabric free of harmful substances? Tests the product, not the factory.
- GRS (Global Recycled Standard) — is the recycled content real, and is the chain of custody documented from input to output? Tests the supply chain.
- Higg FEM — how does the facility perform on energy, water, waste and chemicals? Tests the factory’s environmental management.
A mill can hold OEKO-TEX on every article and have no GRS scope at all. That is not a red flag — it just means it cannot supply certified recycled goods.
Read the Scope, Not the Logo
A certificate covers specific articles, a specific site and a specific validity window. The three things worth checking on any certificate you are handed:
- Which articles are listed — a certificate held on one quality does not cover the fabric you are buying
- Which site — group certificates sometimes name a sister facility, not the one knitting your order
- Expiry date — OEKO-TEX runs annually; an expired certificate is not a certificate
For GRS specifically, the certificate alone is not enough at shipment. You need a Transaction Certificate covering your actual order quantity, issued after production.
Class Matters on OEKO-TEX
STANDARD 100 has product classes by skin contact. Class I is the strictest and applies to articles for babies and toddlers; Class II covers products in direct skin contact. A certificate issued to a lower class does not automatically satisfy a Class I requirement, and buyers of children’s ranges get caught by this regularly.
What to Ask For
Ask for the certificate PDF, not a logo on a presentation. Check the article list, the site and the expiry. For recycled programs, confirm the mill can issue Transaction Certificates before you place bulk — a mill with GRS scope but no TC process will hold up your shipment at the worst possible moment.